This helps. Blueberries are an excellent garden fruit that do take extra soil preparation and the like. but once established, they produce productively all summer far longer than any other fruit without special hybridization.
I can see them been a mainstay everywhere. In many ways they are really just getting going. The raisin forms also works very well as well and can be used in many blends.
In the Vancouver lower mainland i have watched field after field been switched over year by year. This happens to be no small decision as no other crop is then entertained ever. There is no rotation although something could be done if one insisted but without much improvement..
How to Grow Buckets Full of Blueberries at Home
http://thepocketnews.com/how-to-grow-buckets-full-of-blueberries-at-home/
Do you love the taste and health benefits of blueberries? Would you
like a fruit crop that will produce well in a short amount of time and
doesn’t require a lot of space (and can even be grown in a container)?
Have you tried growing blueberries and had poor results? This post is
for you! Learn how to grow blueberries at home in your own backyard.
Why Should I Grow Blueberries?
I would grow blueberries at home just for the taste alone. A
perfectly ripened blueberry warm off the bush is a lovely thing, and
some home varieties (such as Rubel) pack an extra flavor punch.
Blueberries are a super fruit, packed with health benefits. The World’s
Best Foods states that blueberries are loaded with antioxidants and
phytonutrients that benefit nearly every system in the body.
Blueberries
-Help improve memory and may help prevent age-related memory loss
-Have a low glycemic index and may also aid in regulating blood sugar levels
-Improve cardiovascular health
-Protect the retina from oxygen damage
-May help prevent cancer
Which blueberries should I grow?
Different
varieties can be grown from Texas to Canada. I’d recommend checking in
with your local Cooperative Extension office, or asking neighbors who
have had success in growing berries for specific cultivars that are best
suited to your area. Mother Earth News has a great chartthat
summarizes recommended blueberry types for different regions.
Basic blueberry types include lowbush (cold tolerant, less productive), northern highbush(zone 5-7 or colder), southern highbush (zones 7-10), rabbiteye (best for southern growers) and saskatoon (not a true blueberry, but extremely cold tolerant).
What type of soil do I need for blueberries?
Blueberries grow best with an acid soil pH between 4 and 5.5, so do a
soil test before you start. If your soil is alkaline, you’ll either
need to do a LOT of soil amending or grow you blueberries in a
container.
Blueberries like soil rich in acidic, organic material, like you
would find on forest floor or edge of the forest. Peat moss is commonly
recommended, but pine needles, leaves and other tree fallout (that may
be available for free) work just as well.
When you prepare your planting area, dig a generous amount of organic
matter into your soil. Time and effort up front will make all the
difference in plant performance. Watch out for large amounts of sulfur
and other chemical additives, which may lower pH but disrupt the soil
microbes. If you do add sulfur in quantity to lower pH, wait at least
three months for it to break down before planting. (For instance, add
in fall for planting in spring.)
The first time I planted blueberries, I used pine sawdust to kill the
weeds, then used the sawdust for mulch. It worked OK, but I think the
sawdust used a lot of nitrogen, which slowed plant growth.
When I extended my blueberry patch, I first smothered the grass in a
10’x24′ plot with black plastic during the growing season. In the fall I
tilled in a generous amount of leaves and black peat by-product
fromWhitetail Organics earthworm casting production. (My nephew owns and
operates Whitetail Organics.) I know my soil is acidic enough from the
test I did before starting the plot.
How deep should I plant my blueberries, and when should I fertilize them?
Potted plants should be planted at the same depth they are growing in
pot. The same rule applies for bare root plants. The potted plants I
planted blossomed and had fruit the first year. Bare root plants may
take longer.
The texts I have suggest fertilizing with 2 ounces of ammonium
sulfate 18 inches from the plant when you see blossoms and increasing by
an ounce each year up to 4 oz per plant per year. In years when organic
mulches are applied increase the amount by 1/2. I’m currently
gathering pine needles for mulch to keep the weeds down. Blue berries
are a shallow rooted shrub and don’t compete well with grass, so they
will really benefit from a good mulching.
One of the best discoveries I have made is is how the plants respond
to earthworm castings for fertilizer. My nephew gave me a 5 gallon pail
in the fall and suggested I use it for the berries. Since its low
nitrogen I figured it would be OK, but it triggered a growth spurt and
even a few blossoms in October. Now when the berries are starting to
bud, I fertilize with earthworm castings and they do great. From my
experience, a complete organic fertilizer gives results that chemicals
such as Miracle Grow can’t match.
I now have a 24’x40′ enclosure that will be planted with 3 sugar
sweet cherry bushes, 4 honey berries, 2 blue moon, 2 blue velvet, and
the rest will blue berries, including the varieties North Blue,
Chippewa, and Blue bell, a high bush type not really for this area, but I
have 3 of them started so I’m going to give them some time.
How much water do blueberry plants need?
Blueberries need around an inch of water per week. A good layer of
mulch will help keep up the moisture level stable, and cut down on the
amount of time spent watering. I would say the best mulch would be pine
needles. As they decay they will continue to supply nutrients and help
maintain the correct pH.
If you can’t get pine needles, bark over landscape material would be
my next choice, although I haven’t tried it. Each spring, I would
suggest pulling up the mulch and adding organic material such as compost
or castings to keep the ground healthy. (Healthy soil = healthy
plants. Plants in the healthiest soil will produce the healthiest
berries) Remember, these bushes have the potential to provide many
years of delicious berries, so they are worth the extra effort.
How to I keep birds and other animals away from my blueberries?
The first problem I ran into with blue berries is that every wild
animal eats them, and not just the berries. They started with the newly
planted bushes. First the deer came to browse and then the rabbits, and
the first 6 plants I put in turned into 2 inch stubs.
I fenced the next planting with 3 foot wire, but I still had problems
with the deer jumping the fence, so last year I went to a 6 1/2 ft
fence. To keep the birds out I built a frame work out of T post, chicken
wire, tube steel and conduit, then ran wires to support plastic bird
netting. This created safe haven for the plants to grow and berries to
ripen pest free. Having the netting elevated instead of just draped
over the plants provides better protection and makes the plants easier
to access for harvest and care.
I know there are products to repel deer and rabbits but I’m not
convinced in their effectiveness. Same with different tactics to repel
hungry birds – nothing is going to be as effective as a physical fence.
When you price fencing materials they may seem expensive, but remember a
blueberry planting can last 30 years if you manage it properly, so it
will be worth it in the long term.
This post was written with my brother, Richard, based on his
blueberry experience. I’m going to use his advice to overhaul my own
blueberry patch this season, which sadly looks not nearly as nice as
his. I need more organic matter. My neighbor has a big pile of aged
leaves and pine needles that I’ve been eying up in his woods…
I hope you’ve found this post useful. If so, please share. Any
questions or comments, just let us know, and we’ll do our best to help.
Don’t forget to check out our other Gardening posts, such as How to Grow Raspberries.
Growing Blueberries in Containers, Including Overwintering
Instructions-
http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/growing-blueberries-containers. Excerpt
from the article:
Because containers do not provide adequate insulation from the cold, be
sure to protect container-grown blueberries during the winter to prevent
root damage. In mid- to late October, bury containers in the ground at a
site where snow is likely to accumulate and where plants will be
protected from cold winter winds. Mulch the soil surface with four to
eight inches of straw in mid-November or cover the bushes with burlap.
Prevent rabbit damage by placing chicken wire fencing or hardware
cloth around the bushes. During early to mid-spring, remove containers
from the ground and place them in full sun. Alternatively, containers
can be left buried in the soil as long as the containers have proper
drainage holes and the site where the containers are buried is well
drained and exposed to full sun.
How to Prune Blueberries – Here’s a good post from
Ohio State University Extension on proper pruning techniques for
blueberries – http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1430.html.
How to Transplant Mature Blueberry Plants – Yes,
you can transplant mature blueberry bushes. It’s best done in late
winter or early spring. This is a pretty good guide, although I would
try to give the sulfur a longer rest period before planting.
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