The reality is that labor exploitation and occasionally
union exploitation has continued to exist even with enlightened labor
laws and employers. A large part of all this has been a drive to the
bottom that is rarely checked. There are regulatory fixes but they
must also be organized across the market. There is no point paying
one worker minimum wage while another get twice that next door. That
is the present problem with government employees.
The present reality is that the situation although long
recognized has not been successfully changed. Forms of regulation
have foundered or been gamed out of existence while unions have
always overplayed their hands.
It is also totally clear that society is paying the
price of receiving scant tax revenue from these workers who represent
fifteen percent of the labor force.
The business reality is that you need an ordered market
in which an industry wide set of guidelines apply that can be also
used to manage actual market access for new participants including
non local suppliers. This is controversial but it needs to be
addressed in a quasi judicial manner to block off shoring annoying
regulations that represent local values.
Today we in Canada do sometimes buy cheap pork that is
produced in the atrocious factory farms in Mexico at the expense of
local market share. Yet our own producers have been able to export
to China. What is wrong about this movie? The excuses wear thin
after a while. Of course prices edge up as the packers and retail
figure out how to get a bigger slice of the pie.
In the end, agriculture needs to establish local
internal economies that optimize everyone's contribution and rewards
labor while providing ample food production tied to the land itself.
Let us try one cow per acre owned.
The economic models we live under were allowed to emerge
from a simple drive to the bottom and it was at the expense of
workers and consumers and the actual working environment. There were
no checks by the community and stakeholders.
It is time to rethink and to engage in regulatory
experimentation and modeling. We already know that organic methods
provide superior economic outcomes. Remove subsidies for operators
not applying those lessons over ten years at the rate of ten percent
a year.
Set up an agency to identify best practice and use
sliding subsidy removal to force compliance. That would give us a
great start.
The
food movement’s final frontier: Taking care of workers
By
Twilight Greenaway
Rita has
worked for the same Missouri-based pork processing company for 13
years. And yet she feels like she could lose her job at any time. If
this 49-year-old mother of four is late for work by as little as five
minutes, that’s one strike. If she takes more than her allotted
seven minutes to race to the bathroom and back, that’s another
strike. Three strikes is all it takes.
Rita (not
her real name) cuts pork on a line she says has sped up considerably
in recent years. The factory has reduced its staff, but demands the
same amount of work from the employees that remain. She has to move
fast, with a sharp knife, on her feet, for eight to 10 hours a day.
“I’ve never seen so many people with heart problems,” she said
of her co-workers over the phone recently. “I think it’s because
of the stress. Where there used to be four of us, now there are two
people. [The managers] say, ‘You all can do this.’”
In recent
years, some workers have started talking about the conditions they
face and trying to organize for better ones. Whenever this has
happened, the company takes two approaches, Rita tells me. They start
with a small raise (most meatpacking workers make a dollar or two
more than minimum wage) to calm everyone down. If that doesn’t
work, they’ll start firing people. Through all this, Rita has
stayed on at the plant. “There are no other jobs,” she says.
Like farm
work, meatpacking and other food processing work has become a last
resort in this country. And while the harsh conditions Rita describes
don’t apply to everyone working in her sector, they’re not
atypical either.
But
getting an industry-wide view of the type of challenges food workers
face hasn’t been easy. That’s where a new report called “The
Hands that Feed Us,” which is based on a comprehensive survey of
over 600 workers from around the food industry (and nearly 50
employers), comes into the picture. Conducted by the Food Chain
Workers Alliance, the survey puts Rita’s story in full context and
shines a bright light on the often invisible people behind our food.
The Hands
that Feed Us looks at five aspects of the food industry — food
production, processing, distribution, retail, and service — and is
filled with data and policy recommendations. Collectively, these five
arenas sell over
$1.8 trillion in goods and services annually,
accounting for over 13 percent
of the U.S. gross domestic product.
And yet front-line workers in the food chain — the ones not in
management or office positions — earn a median of $18,889 a year.
To put it
another way, 20 million people — or one in five private sector
workers — are working as we speak to make sure we get fed. And yet,
as the report makes clear, they can’t always feed themselves or
their families. It reads:
Ironically,
food workers face higher levels of food insecurity, or the inability
to afford to eat, than the rest of the U.S. workforce. In fact, food
system workers use food stamps at double the rate of the rest of the
U.S. workforce. They also reported working in environments with
health and safety violations, long work hours with few breaks, and
lack of access to health benefits.
At a time
when many Americans are thinking critically about the environmental
and ethical sustainability of their food, The Hands that Feed Us is a
big step in a larger effort to integrate the discussion of the human
element into the burgeoning food movement. And the coalition behind
the report — a member organization made up of 14 groups ranging
from the Coalition of Immokalee workers (two leaders of which were
recently recognized by the Natural Resources Defense Council Growing
Green Awards) to the Restaurant Opportunities Centers United —
hopes it makes waves. Or, at the very least, gets people to widen the
scope of what it means to “eat ethically.”
Joann Lo,
executive director of the Food Chain Workers Alliance, is one of the
core authors of the report (with Saru Jayaraman, director of the Food
Labor Research Center at the University of California-Berkeley).
Lo is
aware that it’s a jump for many eaters to go from thinking
critically about where or how their food is produced to who produced,
packed, prepared, and served it. But she points out that both
problems stem from the same move toward consolidation and
industrialization. The report doesn’t mince words either. It says:
Intense
corporate conglomeration in every segment of the food chain has
greatly diminished the quality and biodiversity of our food. In
interviews, small and mid-size food enterprises reported that market
consolidation has also created unsustainable competition for them.
Corporate consolidation has also contributed to unsustainably low
wages and benefits for food
system workers, in both large
corporations and small to mid-size businesses struggling to compete.
That
through-line between ecosystem health and human health is the
clincher, added Lo, in a recent phone conversation: “The
industrialization of our food system has disconnected people from our
environment — from how we treat the land and our animals.” And in
the case of humans, she says, “that loss of respect for animals and
nature is mirrored.”
Case in
point: Lo describes an ad that someone from Unite Here, a member
organization in the coalition that organizes food service workers,
told her about recently.
“They
found an ad from a staffing agency [in a magazine aimed at food
service providers], and it literally had food service workers in a
vending machine. It’s like workers in the food system are almost
treated like objects — like we can use them up and toss them out.”
But what
exactly will it take to convince eaters, many of whom are already
fatigued by negotiating labels like organic, fair trade, grass-fed,
and shade-grown? For starters, the Food Chain Workers alliance is
partnering with the GOODMaker project to crowdsource an answer.
One of
the simplest ideas is to shine a light on those employers who are
doing right by their workers — such as, in the case of farm labor,
the Agricultural Justice Project’s Food Justice Certified label.
(Although many of the smaller business owners the report’s authors
spoke to admitted that cutting labor costs had been a core strategy
for staying in business as their industries faced consolidation.)
The
report also points to the importance of sick days and health
insurance as one way to highlight the connection between
self-interest and public health. As Lo puts it, “the conditions for
food workers impact food safety. Seventy-nine percent of food workers
don’t have or don’t know if they have paid sick days. And we
found that half of the workers reported they are going to work sick.
Then they’re handling food — from the farm to the retail to the
food service level.”
I’ve
written about the issue of sick days, and healthy workers in general,
and there is obviously much more that a healthy, empowered employee
can/will want to do to keep our food system safe than a sick,
overworked one. Case in point: I spoke with a 62-year-old woman named
Angie recently who stocks groceries for Walmart. She told me that she
regularly sees palettes of refrigerated and frozen foods sit in the
warehouse for much longer than seems safe to her. But she works an
understaffed night shift, where full-time workers have been slowly
replaced by part-time and temporary employees, and there is rarely
anyone to report such a concern to, or fix these problems when she
does see them.
While
this type of compartmentalization — wherein each worker knows his
one small corner of the food chain well — might be efficient, it
also keeps people from advancing professionally, or having the
pleasure or opportunity to think and work on a system-wide level. (As
I see it, the latter can’t be undersold as a key element in a
thriving food system.)
Take as
the opposite example a small farmer who grows and/or processes her
own food and sells it directly to eaters through face-to-face
relationships. This difference explains why so many people still work
their tails off to produce food on a small-scale. It’s the opposite
of a vending machine — in every way. It’s also the opposite of
the way Rita, the meatpacking worker from earlier in the story, told
me it feels to work for her employers. “I’m not just speaking for
myself,” she told me. “They treat us like animals.”
They start with a small raise (most meatpacking workers make a dollar or two more than minimum wage) to calm everyone down. If that doesn’t work, they’ll start firing people. Through all this, Rita has stayed on at the plant.
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